Sateen Base Crepe Weave

Derivatives of Satin Weave:
Weaves are produced on the satin base is called derivatives of satin weave. Lot of jacquard designs based on this satin weave. In this case the following simple structures those are based on satin weave will be discussed.
1. Crepe Weaves:
The characteristic feature of crepe fabrics is one of texture. Their surface exhibits an allover, random, small-scale pattern in low relief. There are two ways of obtaining this kind of texture:
• By using a special 'crepe' or 'oatmeal' weave in conjunction with ordinary, normal-twist spun or filament yarns, and
• High-twist crepe yarns in conjunction with plain or other simple weaves such as twill or satin.
The fabric should have a rough irregular surface without any prominent features. This is generally achieved by having approximately equal disposition of warp and weft on the surface of the cloth, and also by avoiding any floats which exceed three.
The characteristics of crepe-weave fabrics depend largely upon the kind of yarn used. If ordinary yarns are used and the crepe weave is employed to give a crepe appearance, then the fabric will have little drapability, low strength, and limited durability. Some crepe fabrics tend to stretch, and some may shrink when subjected to wetting. On the other hand, combinations of yarns and weave construction can produce fabrics of interesting appearance and texture that have good drapability, resilience, stretch, and serviceability.
There are four basic methods of producing crepe weaves:
a. On a sateen base
b. By reversing
c. By superimposing
d. On a plain weave base
The methods of construction are:
a. Sateen base:
Construct a sateen weave
Construct a twill weave on the same repeat size
Using the sateen base as the starting point of each lift of the twill, rearrange the twill weave on the sateen .base. This new weave is called sateen base crepe weave.
The following figures show the weave plan with drafting and lifting plan of different sateen base crepe fabric. Normally straight drafting system is used to produce this weave.